News — Pattern Tour

This is a pattern by Vogue for the evening or wedding ‘Frock with or without train features circular frills outlining the raglan armholes.  Long sleeves pointed over wrists and darted at shoulder, are optional.  Deep V-opening at back or higher back with inset.  Gathers at front below neck band which is buttoned at back.  Knotted whisker at throat is optional.’ Vogue offered a generous seam allowance of 5/8" at a time when pattern companies widely produced patterns with a 3/8" or 1/2" seam allowance.  For their exceptional designs, Vogue also set themselves apart in the commercial pattern industry by selling...

Simplicity marketed this pattern (1210) design in Summer of 1933 headlining it, 'Daytime and Evening Fashions of Cool Charm and Smart Line'.  It is one of the earliest street trouser patterns I have found for women: As one from the Simplicity Three-Style pattern series (a 1930's take on the 'Capsule Wardrobe' concept, if you will), this ensemble includes the epaulette-shoulder blouse, wide leg trousers, vest and jacket with French cuffs. A piece for the Ascot-style scarf is not given, but dimensions and instructions for creating it are included. Curiously, this ladies' Tuxedo was issued at a time when Simplicity released their...

I found this Pictorial Review 9079 with a motherlode 1920's & 30's patterns (which included the ultra rare and desirable Katharine Hepburn Ensemble) in 2004! When I look at this Pictorial Review, I think of it as a 'retro retrospective'. That is, the 1930's stylized perspective on a previous year in history. We usually think of the 1930's recalling Colonial or Federal times, so this is a prized example from 1937 referring to the 'Directoire' Federal sensibility in fashion for it's almost-Empire waist line. When looking at it against adaptations from the early 1900's, a close-fitting, almost-corset line is read in...

This is a very unusual 13-piece pattern originally by Simplicity (1241), the 1933 Garden Ensemble of Pajamas and Apron.  I offer it in sizes: Set A fitting 12-20 (30" to 38" bust, 25" to 32" waist, 33" to 41" hip) or, Set B fitting 40-46 (40" to 46" bust, 34" to 40" waist, 43" to 49" hip). It is part of the Simplicity Three-Style pattern series of the early 1930's; a series which afforded the home sewist of the Great Depression better economy by availing 'three entirely different and charming styles' from one pattern (a 1930's take on the 'Capsule Wardrobe'...

Think of the ever popular 1929 Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem as origami in dressmaking. When sewing this design together, you will 'flip' the Lower Back and Side piece after joining it with the Front piece at notch '4'.  This ensures the piece will fold and drape to create sharp points in the hem as well as bring notch '6' in the upper edge of the Lower Back and Side piece to align with that on the Girdle.  Hopefully this paper mock-up demonstrates the point (pun intended):   Here is a creative twist put on this design as sewn by a...