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Oct. 31 - Nov. 4 The Week in Patterning - 47, Pattern Tour & Review by Threads Magazine

Alexandra Reynolds 1940's D40-4185 dress EvaDress Patterns The Week in Patterning Storyboard Threads Magazine Vintage Patterns

This little gem of a 1947 Butterick pattern is featured in Threads Magazine, issue #188 (Dec. '16/Jan. '17) Pattern Review on page 24.  So, I am making this post the pattern tour for it!  I issued it in my multi-size series last year for 32" to 48" bust:  


The cut-out details at the front of each shoulder create a flattering, almost sweetheart neckline.  The original pattern instructs making these cutouts with narrow hand-rolled hems (illustrated below).  I noted in my instructions to face the cut-outs with silk organza, using narrow seam allowances to get stable, crisp openings.

There are three sleeve options in this design: short tulip-style sleeves (wraps under the arm and overlaps at the shoulder seam of the bodice), bracelet-length or long sleeves fitted at the elbow with darts.  The short, inverted tulip sleeves best draw the eye to the cut-out features of the bodice.  


Aside from the cut-out bodice, there is more 'front interest' with the gathered skirt inset at center front.  The skirt back is cut in three gores and the back of the bodice blouses a bit with darts fitting from the back of the neck; lending an overall tailored appearance whereas the front of the dress is about softness and femininity, a fascinating dynamic in post-war style!   

You can see what Threads had to say and even get a 360 degree view of the sample they created from my pattern if you are an insider (online).  Flip to page 24 now if you have an advanced copy as a subscriber.  Otherwise, the issue hits stands Tuesday the 8th!

The latter part of my post here is a slight review of Threads review of this pattern.  It is stated that the back neckline darts are omitted in my pattern.  This has been rectified as I did accidentally forward Threads copies of the pattern without them marked in.  They also state that the line art indicates a kick pleat, yet that is something I have not observed in any art accompanying this dress pattern!  As well, it was felt that under-stitching the neckline facing was not advised in my instructions (under-stitching generally was not as typical a practice at this time in history) yet that is good advice for today's sewer.  

An additional note for today's take on this design, I like to clean things up a bit and eliminate seams at times.  Depending on your fabric width, I would cut the center front of the skirt front piece on the fold (subtracting the seam allowance given there) so as to eliminate the line over the front skirt inset, just to avoid what I see as an unnecessary interruption.

Another style with similar features and dynamics is McCall 6659 (circa 1946) which I currently offer in one of two single sizes.  I will present a tour of that pattern next time!




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