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Sept. 5 - 9, The Week in Patterning - 38

Alexandra Reynolds 1920's coat EvaDress Patterns How To My Personal Dressmaking SE20-5955 The Week in Patterning Storyboard

This week's patterning went a little inside out.  

I finished the 1929 coat with a habotai lining color I wouldn't normally wear (it's not my red).  Since the weave of the coat fabric is so light and open, I did the lining in this hue to keep the outside appearance of the coat very bright.  Had I used my favorite deep claret, the coat would be much darker overall.

1959 coat from pattern SE50-5955

The 'inside out' occurs before having dropped this lining in so light is shed on the construction and finishing methods I used.  Take a look:

As I posted early on about this coat, I Hong Kong-ed the seams.


Since I was after a quick finish, I did not Hong Kong the hem edge, but rather used traditional seam binding tape.  Out of red tape, I put this ecru to use-again, ensuring a lightness in color for the outside of the coat.  The front facings are also finished in the Hong Kong manner.

In lieu of creating self-faced sleeve cuffs, I faced each with habotai and top-stitched the upper edge after turning to give the effect of an applied piece at each sleeve end versus a loose-fitting cuff.  Each of the pieces I made were invisibly tacked in place to keep close to the sleeve.

Each pocket was also faced with habotai and top-stitched in place:


A quick note on stabilizing the armsceye, shoulder and front facing seams: I put Gail Patrice's Deni-fuse to work again as a 3/8" wide stay tape (I cut it on straight of grain) in order to keep the sheer quality of this woven yet giving it strength in such high-stress areas:

 Of course, I use this fusible as interfacing on larger parts of a garment (such as the sleeve appliques and pockets of this coat).  The secret to its real success in keeping sheers well, sheer and maintaining a fabric's natural hand?  It's small glue dots!





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