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Dec. 26 - Dec. 30 The Week in Patterning - 55, Pattern Tour 1943 Dress & Redingote

Alexandra Reynolds 1940's coat D40-4662 dress EvaDress Patterns redingote shirtwaist dress The Week in Patterning Storyboard Vintage Patterns

Simplicity originally designated this a dress & coat pattern.  I refer to the coat as a redingote as I feel its single-button-at-waist closing really aids in revealing the dress underneath (would also be smashing with trousers underneath)!  

In testing this design, I found much more ease in the redingote sleeve cap than I prefer.  It may be advisable to reduce some of the sleeve cap height no matter what size you are sewing, but see what your muslin says about that (of course).  That goes ditto for the dress sleeve.

The collarless redingote is clean, yet brimming with details.  Princess lines with a uniquley-shaped front/side front slim the waistline via a diagonal seam.  The original instructs a top-stitched finish here, but I personally like to sew such by way of regular seams with reinforcement at the point (with a little patch of silk organza where scissors are shown, left image) and leave the top-stitching out altogether. 

The back princess lines of the redingote are pleated between side back and back pieces at the waistline (image, right).  Soft pleats from the front shoulder lend ease over the bust leaving no need for 'messy' bust darts.

The front of the waist dress is fitted like that of the redingote.  

Otherwise, detailing is in the gored skirt and optional collar which may be worn in contrast atop the redingote, as shown in the cover art, model at right.

Per the original pattern the dress and redingote back lengths are the same.  Unlike the original pattern, I separated the front and back facings for both the dress and redingote.  I didn't care for the way the graded, but one can integrate them using the front and back pieces to create a continuous facing (thus, reducing seam bulk).  To do this, add a 1/2" seam allowance at the center back fold line and take 1/2" seam allowance away from the shoulder seam of the front and back facing pieces.  Simply tape the front and back facing pieces together at the shoulder line. 

I made the dress and redingote patterns available as separates in addition to the ensemble, as they were originally offered by Simplicity.

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